Cuba spent decades being shrouded in mystery for most American travelers. Once President Obama made progress which resulted in making it easier for Americans to visit, I couldn’t pass on the opportunity to take my travel journal and camera to the shores of Havana, Cuba. I’ll be the first to admit that four days and three nights wasn’t nearly enough time to soak up all the richness, but I made the most of my time as best as I could.
In order to keep up with my personal travel goals, I’ve resolved to only travel where the deals take me. It’s a bit freeing knowing that my travel plans could lead me anywhere in the world as long as the price is right. I knew it was meant to be when Aeromexico published an omg-this-is-real deal for roundtrip tickets to Havana, Cuba.
I played with the dates and was able to score a four-day trip during MLK Weekend for $238! Don’t be like me; I waited a few days to see if I really wanted to go during those dates, but when I went back the deal had changed. No worries! An overnight layover in Mexico City (MEX) allowed me to get the plane ticket for the original deal price. I crunched the numbers and determined that even with hotel costs added, it was still cheaper. Voila! Black Girl Meets World was going to Cuba!
First Impressions of Havana, Cuba
When the plane touched down in José Martí International Airport (HAV), I couldn’t contain my excitement! Despite the airport’s dated appearance, the welcoming spirit of the island washed over me. After getting my passport adorned with the coveted stamp, I met my friends right past Immigration Control. We cleared customs in 3 minutes flat, switched out our currencies and made a beeline for the airport’s liquor store. We bought a bottle of Cuban rum and a can of orange soda. Yes, we were those people taking celebratory shots of in the Cuban airport. Don’t judge. After we loaded up the trunk of our taxi, we took another shot and cruised towards Central Havana.
Po’ up in Havana’s airport.
Cuba’s air was so refreshing! Although the temperature was in the low 70’s, Cubans consider January their winter. Can we say heaven on earth?! Our driver coasted along as I snapped some photos of the surroundings. As the reality of where I was sank in, I immediately knew that I would fall deeply in love with Cuba.
Entrance of Havana’s infamous Melia Cohiba hotel
We stopped by the luxurious, waterfront Melia Cohiba hotel so we could map out plans for Night 1. At this point, we still didn’t have a place to stay and some of us realized we wouldn’t have mobile service, so this gave us an opportunity to lounge while we figured everything out. Out of curiosity, I walked to the front desk and discovered the cost of a one-night stay would run me $584. Talk about sticker shock! I could have stayed in a casa particular for nearly two months for the same price! Havana isn’t known for luxury travel, so I humbly trotted back to the bar to finish my $5 mojito.
Cuban Food & Drink
Cuban rum is smooth and inexpensive enough to drink like it’s water. Don’t ask me how I know this, just trust me on this one. If you’re really lucky, your casa host will prepare fresh squeezed fruit juices and you can mix your rum right in for a really good time! Be sure to keep bottled water on you! You can purchase them on just about every block for less than 1 CUC.
Cuba Libre on the beach.
While the cocktails at the hotels are more expensive at $5-8 CUC, you can score them at local spots for closer to $2-3 CUC. The Cuba Libre is the local “rum & coke” using Cuban cola, rum and lime. As for the mojito, it’s a Cuban classic! Expect the mojitos to taste different from the mojito you’re used to in America, because Cuban mojitos use raw cane sugar and Yerba Buena, a special kind of spearmint.
A classic Cuban mojito made with raw cane sugar, Havana Club rum, and Yerba Buena spearmint
All over the internet, I saw tons of posts reflecting skepticism and outright criticism of Cuba’s food offering for visitors.
“Cuba’s food is bland!”
“Cuban food is better when you’re not in Cuba!”
“Don’t eat the street food!”
“Bring your own snacks so you won’t starve!”
Source: Giphy
By American standards, I guess the food is “basic.” Chicken/pork, rice and black beans are standard fare. Restaurants that cater to tourists might feature a fresh seafood option or two; some had plantains and eggplants prepared various ways to offer as an accompaniment. Clearly, Havana is no foodie haven, but all the food I ate was delicious.
Example of Cuban street food (prices are in CUP)
I typically wouldn’t eat food that’s been sitting in the heat for hours, no matter where I was in the world, so it didn’t faze me to pass up a fish or steak sandwich. One of my local guides said it takes visitors about two weeks before their stomachs can “handle” street food. Do with that as you please.
Source: Giphy
My advice: just be mindful. Most Cuban street food isn’t prepared for tourists; it’s food locals regularly eat on the go. However, I took my chances and queued in line for some churros from a street vendor and they tasted amazing! Churros are a fried dough pastry, typically rolled in sugar. If you’re feeling fancy, and I was, get some chocolate or sweetened condensed milk drizzled on top.
Cuban street vendor preparing fresh churros
During a random night of wandering around and trying to figure out where the rumored Nomadness pool party was, we walked past El Parthenon de Linea. The hostess was very patient with me as I fumbled through the Spanish I had picked up. I ordered the grilled chicken plate and my total came to a pocket-breaking $3 CUC; that’s the equivalent of $3 USD.
$3 Late night dinner from El Parthenon de Linea in Vedado, Havana
If you don’t go ANYWHERE else, please make your way to El Ajibe. Located in the Miramar neighborhood, about 15 minutes from Central Havana, this place has an incredible special on easily the best food in Havana. Their “house special” is all you can eat chicken, black beans, and rice with their special sauce. It came with plantains, prepared differently each time I visited. Yes, I went back to El Ajibe… more than once. I wish I had a photo of our meals from El Ajibe, but I don’t think my phone ever made it out of my bag before I dug in!
Havana Nightlife
Baby, we gave new meaning to “Havana nights”! We ate dinner, then hailed a taxi to a nearby dance club. Staring at the line wrapped around the door, the bouncer told us we wouldn’t have much luck if we didn’t make reservations. Not to be defeated, we shared a cab back to Parque Centra with a local, then ended up bar hopping with him! I wish I could more helpful with names and recommendations, but my phone died. Again, this is where being friendly (but always aware) with locals has its perks, because we went to all the local Havana hot spots. Let’s be honest, who wants to party with a bunch of other tourists? Not I.
Source: Giphy
I spent my last night in Havana at 1830, an outdoor salsa night club on the Malecon. The $5 CUC admission was worth it for the free salsa lessons that awaited (professional salsa lessons run between $25-40 CUC per hour). By lessons, I mean I bashfully let the Cuban men and women who offered to help me not look a hot mess swing me around on the dance floor. Salsa dancing is not as easy as I thought it would be! I was good for the 1, 2, 3, 4, then they’d add a spin, another spin, and I’d end up looking ridiculous.
Sundays at 1830 include special performances by professional Cuban dancers, so this is an absolute can’t-miss experience!
Cuban Hospitality
The most rewarding aspects of travel is meeting and falling in love with the people, and Cubans were no exception! Some of my favorite pictures from the trip are of locals going about their everyday lives.
I told the little girl her hair was pretty and she wouldn’t stop posing for me. Side note: Black mama looks are universal.
From the taxi driver who patiently took me through the neighborhoods to find my Daddy’s special Cuban rum, to the abuelitas who helped me as I wandered casa to casa looking for my friends because I had the wrong address. Every Cuban I encountered met me with kindness, opening their doors and their hearts to help me and sharing a moment of goodwill when I needed it most.
Talking to the locals made me love Havana even more. Everyone is generally friendly and fascinated with seeing Americans – specifically Black Americans- visiting their country. They had as many questions about my experiences as I had about theirs. I will advise that it is inappropriate to hop in a cab and ask your driver, “so, what do you think about Castro?” Just… don’t do that.
However, if you build up a friendly rapport, you’ll find that conversations fueled by curiosity flow naturally. I met a few Cuban people who were fluently bilingual in Spanish and English. They enthusiastically engaged in respectful dialogue on numerous topics. We talked social privileges, religions, politics, poverty, racism, you name it!
One of the best conversations was with a Cuban millennial, born at the height of the revolution, about the lasting (and often unnamed) impacts of colorism in Cuba. After asserting that Cuba didn’t have race issues like the United States, I asked my new friend his opinion Cuba’s struggle with colorism. I pointed out how he casually referred to the aesthetics of women we passed as White, Mulatto or Black and the differences in the adjectives he used to describe those belonging to each group. Our debate went on for several minutes until we both had personal “aha!” moments. In short: good learning opportunities come from great conversations.
Would I Go Back?
Absolutely! I count my first trip to Cuba as a win! I checked off 90% of my Havana list, so I wouldn’t spend much time there when I return. Maybe a weekend in Havana to catch Fabrica de Artes on Friday and Hamal Alley on Sunday. Then, I’d venture out to explore other parts of the island. Maybe Trinidad, definitely Veradero. There’s so much to do and see, so four days wasn’t enough for me.
Bottom line: Cuba, I’ll be back.
Until next time…
